Alithia Spuri-Zampetti’s latest dream-like and summery collection for Paule Ka was hosted in the grand greenhouse in the Jardin des Plantes. This was a perfect venue to present her vibrant outfits with a special touch of fluidity. Raw-edged oral jacquard with delicate hand-cut petals and gradient hand-dyed draped gowns with watery hues captivated the guests. Inspired by Japan, the artistic director turned sleeves, wraparound waists and engineered striped pleating into feminine silhouettes. Streamlined suits with a judo belt and the beloved Paule Ka bow hit the runway with Spuri-Zam- petti’s dresses featuring sporty knitwear tops and fluid or bell skirts. Silk, fine cotton blends and jacquards were combined in sophisticated pieces that move effortlessly from daytime to evening. Not to be forgotten were the tropical colors with appliqués, strings, ribbons and feather embellishments.
Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia are Oscar de la Renta’s new creative directors, but they have not yet launched their own collection. Instead, they watched the spring line designed by the ten member studio team that showed lovely pieces, such as a knit skirt suit, safari jacket, peasant dress as well as cocktail frocks and evening dresses. The flat sandals and the minimal accessories worn by the models gave the show a breezy, juvenile and light feel. The white, long-sleeved peasant dresses, long skirts and caftans were crafted with organza, lace and silk. Then came a red tank dress with a tiered skirt, cotton safari jacket over matching shorts, a crop top with skirt, a black cocktail number with sequin and feather touches, gold thread and also silk taffeta gowns. We saw de la Renta’s familiar shapes and are curious to see what Kim and Garcia will do in early 2017.